Tulamben Diving: Exploring the Mucky Wonderland of Bali

Published: April 17, 2020 Updated: May 17, 2023 Author: Simon Pierce

White ornate ghost pipefish

I visited Tulamben after a recommendation from diving expert Brooke Lorianne. I chose Scuba Seraya Resort as my base for exploring “muck diving”—sandy bottom diving known for extraordinary marine biodiversity.

What’s the Diving Like in Tulamben?

The house reef (formerly “Seraya Secrets”) immediately fronts Scuba Seraya. Divers encounter harlequin shrimp, ornate ghost pipefish in black and white variations, hairy squat lobsters, seahorses, wonderpus octopus, and frogfish.

Harlequin shrimp

Dives reach approximately 27 meters depth. This is a natural habitat for underwater photographers and marine critter aficionados.

Water temperature reached 30°C in April. I wore boardshorts and rash shirts. Nitrox fills and 15-liter tanks extended bottom time to 60-70 minutes per dive.

Wonderpus octopus

Diving the Liberty Wreck

Diver at Liberty Wreck

The iconic Liberty Wreck attracts substantial crowds. Early morning dives offer better light conditions as crowds thin out. A hawksbill turtle and decent-sized fish inhabit the wreck, which offers open access for photography inside.

When to Go?

  • October and November: The very best time for diving Tulamben Bay
  • May through mid-July: Good conditions during the southeast monsoon
  • December through early April: Rough seas

Where to Stay?

Scuba Seraya Resort features comfortable rooms, included breakfast, good inexpensive restaurant food, and photographer-friendly amenities including a camera room. Luxury villas are available.

Photographic Considerations

I highlight ethical concerns about guide behavior, noting that guides had clearly been hacking off starfish arms to deliver to the harlequin shrimps. I recommend discussing ethical expectations with guides beforehand.

Getting to Tulamben

Tulamben village sits in northeast Bali, two hours north of Kusamba ferry port. Scuba Seraya arranges transfers from Kusamba or Denpasar International Airport.


Source: naturetripper.com/articles/tulamben-diving